Friday, April 25, 2008

Memoirs from Kerala - Part - II : Kochi's Appam, Marine Drive & linguistic Hurdles

Click Here to read this post in Hindi script.

Pichli post mein aapne padha ki humne kaise Ranchi se Ernakulam ki 2300 km ki yatra poori ki.
vaise to kochi (purana nam cochin) das chhote bade dvipon se milake bana hai,par mukhyatah ise aap teen bhagon me bant sakate hain. ek hissa manav nirmit Willingdon Island hai jise angrejon ne samud se nikali gaee mitti se 1920 mein banaya tha. kochi ke is hisse mein konkan relave ka cochin relave stationa, havaee adda aur bharatiy nau sena ke karyalay aate hain. vilingadan dvip ke ek or fort kochi Mattancherry ke ilake aate hain jisamein kochi ki jyadatar aitihasik virasaten sthit hain to doosari or mukhy bhoobhag se juda eranakulam ka vyavasayik nagar aata hai.

aksar log kerala package tour ke tahat jate hain. viman se utarane ke bad vahan aur hotal ki suvidha ke bare mein paryatak ko sochana nahin padata par ye jaroor hai ki jeb achchhi tarah se halki ho jati hai. hamalog jab eranakulam pahunche to hamare pas jane vali sari mukhy jagahon ka ek-yek din ka aarakshan tha. ye sochakar aa gaye the ki pahale din to koee chinta nahin rahegi aur doosare din ghoom firakar koee thaur thikana dhoondh hi lenge .

eranakulam station par utare hi the ki kali kali poshakon mein jhund ke jhund log bhagavan ayappa ki jayajayakar karate huye relave overbridge par jate dikhaee pade. train mein hamein sahayatriyon se pata chal chuka tha ki jis tarah uttar bharat mein jagah jagah kanvariya kanvar uthakar dharmik sthalon ki taraf jate hain (ranchi ke samip devaghar mein bhi savan ke samay aisi yatrayen hoti hain) vaise hi ye dal kottayam ke samip pahadi par sthit sabarimala ke mandir ja raha hai.

jidhar pri paid auto ka booth tha ham udhar hi chal pade. vahan andar light jal rahi thi par rasid katane vale ka door-door tak pata na tha. ye anupasthiti suniyojit hi thi kyonki 6.30-7 PM ka vakt trains ki aavajahi ke hisab se vyast hi kaha jayega. purani dilli station ki yaden taja ho gaeen. is bat ko fir bal mila ki anekata mein ekata vakaee hai hamare desh mein. khair das pandrah minat pratiksha ke bad bhi jab vahan koee nahi aaya tab hamane taxi aur auto valon se poochhana shuru kiya. tis ki jagah hamase sau rupae mange ja rahe the. koyee aur upay na dekh hamane dedh sau rupaye mein ek taxii kar li jo das minute se kam samay mein hi hamein apane gantavy tak pahuncha gayee.

hamara guest house rihaeeshi ilake mein tha so naha dho kar ham khane ka jugad dhoondhane lage. thodi der chalne ke bad hamein ek chhota sa hotel dikhaee pada. keral mein aam taur par bhojanalayon mein roti nahin milati. isaki jagah milata hain paratha jo tikona na hokar gol hota hai aur prayah maide ka banaya jata hai. menu card mein jo ek nayi chij dikhaee di vo thi appam (Appam) chaval se banaye jane vale is vyanjan ko hamare suputr ne shighra hi apana priy aahaar bana liya. samanyatah tamilanadu aur kerala mein log ise nashte ke taur par chatani ke sath (ye apane aap mein fika hota hai) khate hain. khane ke bad hamane tourist bus ke bare mein poochhatachh shuru ki. ab vahan aangl bhasha ke janakar gine chune the. hotal ke malik ne kuchh logon ko hamari bat samajhane ke liye aage kiya par vo bhi hamare prashn ko samajhane mein asafal rahe.


agali subah das baje jab tourist office meinphone lagaya to pata chala ki kochi ke pramukh sthanon ke liye unake yahan se motaraboat seva upalabdh hai. tourist office se din ka ticket le kar ham bagal ke energy yani urja park chal pade.

bachchon ko vahan kanr chalane, aur tarah tarah ke jhoolon mein aanand aa gaya. sham ko jab jetti se laut kar vapas aaye to park mein til bhar pair rakhane ki jagah nahin thi. poora utsav sa mahaul tha.

park ke pichhavade mein Vembanad Lake hai jo bharat ki sabase lambi jheel hai. is jheel ka vistar eranakulam, kottayam aur allleppy zilon tak hai. kochi mein aakar ye arab sagar mein milti hai. is jheel ke kinare-kinare chahalakadami ke liye khoobasoorat sa marg bana hai jo kochi ka merin draiv kahalata hai. marg mein bich bich mein ardhavrttakar pul bhi hain. marg ke doosari or bade-bade vyaparik pratishthanon aur shanping manls ki lambi katare hain. par marine drive ke raste mein shahar ke gande nale aakar milate hain jinase nirantar aati badabu raste ki shobha ko dhoomil kar deti hai. isi vajah se hamase pal bhar bhi marine drive par baithane ki ichchha nahin huee.

din mein jetti lene ke pahale ham aage ke safar ke liye gadi book karana chahate the. hamane socha ki ye kam station ke aas pas badiya tarike se ho payega. isaliye ek auto ko roka aur station kahate huye baith gaye. ab vo malayalam mein hamase kuchh poochhane laga. hamare angreji mein samajhane par usane sar par hath rakh liya aur kaha NO ENGLISH. fir kuchh der sochane ke bad usane kaha northa..sautha. hamane socha ki lagata hai ham kahan se aaye hain ye poochh raha hai to daant niporate huye hamane kaha northa.. usane ajib sa munh banaya aur fir kuchh kaha. hamane bina samajhe fir ek muskurahat se pratyuttar diya. thodi der mein mujhe laga ki ye vo rasta nahin hai jis taraf se ham raat mein aaye the, par use ye samajhayen kaise ye sochakar chup rah gaye. thodi der mein sadakon par ghoomate ghumate vo hamein eranakulam town station le aaya aur tab hamein ehasas huaa ki vo shayad shahar ke uttar ya dakshin disha vale station ke bare mein poochh raha tha. khair 30-40 rupaye ka choona lagavakar ham mukhy station pahunche.

choonki kochi railway station aur havaee adda Willingdon mein hai, jyadatar travel agent shahar ke us hisse mein hain. December ki bhid aur christmas ki vajah se tamam gadiyan pahale se book thin. ham logon ki yojana thi ki Non AC Qualis le lenge par vo mili hi nahin aur hamein AC vahan lena pada. is bhagadaud mein din ka ek baj gaya. din mein hamane kochi ki shanadar birayani khaee aur chal pade jetti ke safar para.

jetti se hamane kya dekha aur kya nahin dekha iska khulasa agali kisht mein.